how can I?

[paulw]

strip out key pad and imobilizer?  can't clear fault, engine turns but imobilzer just flashes. I want to strip out both so I just turn key to start up

[carlukepeugeot]

strip out key pad and imobilizer?  can't clear fault, engine turns but imobilzer just flashes. I want to strip out both so I just turn key to start up

Hi.

If only it was that simple.... First though, I am assuming that you have the lucas pump. If not, then you may be in luck. Read on a bit for the background, but I will put a link in a moment to a video by Piggy (from on here) covering the other type. 

The immobiliser keypad simply interrupts power to the fuel solenoid. Basically while the immobiliser is active, there is no power to the solenoid and so therefore no fuel supplied to the pump. So the car will turn over but not start due to there being no fuel. You pop the code in, 12V is fed to the solenoid and away you go. 

A standard non immobiliser solenoid just has a terminal on the top and the body is the earth. The immobiliser one has various wires to it which are connected to the immobiliser pad and I believe there is also a little black box on the back of the pump which is involved too.

The way to fully remove the immobiliser is to swap out the solenoid valve for a standard one, which just receives ignition switched 12V to a terminal on the top. The problem is that to prevent a potential thief from simply opening the bonnet and connecting 12V to the solenoid, there is a 3mm armoured plate attached to the pump body which covers the solenoid. This is in your way and preventing you from getting access to the solenoid. 

Right, so if you dont have a lucas pump, then this video by Piggy may be your salvation :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r_H125imwc

if you do have a lucas pump, read on....or maybe read on anyway, there may be info of interest.

The 'corrrect' way to remove this is to remove the pump as the attachments are not accessible until the pump is removed (again to make it an effective deterrent - the average thief isn't going to do this!). That is quite involved and rather off putting. For that reason, many people just take a grinder to the metal armour plating and cut enough away to get access to the solenoid for replacement - see photo below. Bear in mind that taking a grinder to this isn't exactly a breeze either, not something every DIY mechanic would be comfortable doing !

   

Note  - in this picture the immobiliser type solenoid has been replaced with the standard single wire type.

You can 'disable' the immobiliser pad (so I am told) by inserting the code then disconnecting the keypad, however (assuming this works) you still have the immobiliser solenoid which is inaccesible behind the plate, so this is not effective in removing the risk of the solenoid failing and being extremely hard to replace. Also I imagine that if the battery was disconnected then the keypad would again be required, but I am guessing a bit on that one - maybe it isn't. 

On my last 306 I had a few issues with the immobiliser / solenoid where the car wouldn't start. I cut away the plate but never got round to swapping out the solenoid. I did however cut the wires and make up a connector whereby I could bypass the immobiliser feed and give 12V directly to the solenoid if required. I also discovered that a strong magnet placed on the end of the solenoid body would pull it open. I used this (with magnets out of a hard drive) as an emergency method once or twice - of course you then need to use the stop lever on the pump to stop it (or remove the magnet of course).

What is your issue anyway?  Have you forgotten the code ?  Does the immobiliser pad show a fault (Red and Green LED on together) ?  If you can't get the immobiliser to accept the code and power the solenoid, there really is no way to get round it other than getting into the solenoid and either powering it directly off a 12V switched feed or better yet replace it with the standard type.