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08-08-2017, 07:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-08-2017, 07:52 PM by Ben_Holden_.)
hi guys, 306 won't start, got an error code which is to do with EGR. it cranks and runs on easy start, there is fuel at the injectors but seems to be no power to the injectors....
anyone got any idea of where i could look?
fuses all okay.
that is the only code we are getting. 2.0l HDI merdian
EDIT: we have disconnected the EGR from the intake manifold
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What's the condition of your battery/starter? Besides immobiliser probs the only other stuff off the top of my head is fuel pressure, low and high.. Is the code reader a generic one?
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08-08-2017, 08:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-08-2017, 08:04 PM by Ben_Holden_.)
(08-08-2017, 07:56 PM)Uberderv Wrote: What's the condition of your battery/starter? Besides immobiliser probs the only other stuff off the top of my head is fuel pressure, low and high.. Is the code reader a generic one?
battery is good starter is cranking car fine, everything else works fine on the car so i'd think immobilizer wouldn't be the issue
code reader is brothers and he is a full time mechanic
Addition: old owner said he thinks it is turbo seals but we have checked them all over and seem to be no issues, oil is still in engine and minimal in intake manifold
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09-08-2017, 08:05 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-08-2017, 08:06 AM by Poodle.)
Where are you based?
Could be many things, can you hear the lp priming? Try the impact switch at back of engine bay on passenger side.
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(09-08-2017, 08:05 AM)Poodle Wrote: Where are you based?
Could be many things, can you hear the lp priming? Try the impact switch at back of engine bay on passenger side.
Kidderminster why?
Can hear the IP priming and also tested impact switch still nothing it turns over but doesn't fire unless easy start sprayed in.
Fuels at the injectors and they're all bled but seems there isn't any signal to injectors
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09-08-2017, 08:16 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-08-2017, 08:17 AM by Poodle.)
Damn, was thinking you might be local and i could pop round to help.
Sounds like an immobiliser or battery issue. Once started on easy start does it keep running?
Also, for future reference; these fuel systems self-bleed thanks to the lift pump.
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Battery is off a car. Brothers brought back from recovery, so battery is fine, turns car over at 289rpm which is enough. Won't keep running just cuts out once all the easy has been burnt
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Does the rcl work? Try deadlocking on the button and leaving it for a minute, then unlock and try again. Probably won't work, but i've had it happen once before.
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(09-08-2017, 09:37 AM)Poodle Wrote: Does the rcl work? Try deadlocking on the button and leaving it for a minute, then unlock and try again. Probably won't work, but i've had it happen once before.
Switch doesn't work, sensor been broke in car for few years so fob doesn't unlock/lock
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Ah ok. Can try it with the key, can't see why it wouldn't work the same way tbf. When it happened to me the car had been sat for 6 months, think the bsi just had a fit.
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How do you activate deadlock with just the key?
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(09-08-2017, 10:30 AM)Ben_Holden_ Wrote: How do you activate deadlock with just the key?
Just hold the key in the lock position
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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(09-08-2017, 10:41 AM)bashbarnard Wrote: (09-08-2017, 10:30 AM)Ben_Holden_ Wrote: How do you activate deadlock with just the key?
Just hold the key in the lock position
Sweet, I'll try that when I'm home
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(09-08-2017, 10:41 AM)bashbarnard Wrote: (09-08-2017, 10:30 AM)Ben_Holden_ Wrote: How do you activate deadlock with just the key?
Just hold the key in the lock position
Car dead locks and unlocks fine
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09-08-2017, 05:23 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-08-2017, 05:27 PM by Poodle.)
Still not starting though i guess..? Get your brother to plug it in and have a look at the live data. See if you've got cam and crank sync while cranking and have a look at what the fuel rail pressure is at the same time, can't remember what the figure is but he might know, 350ish..?
Edit: In fact the diag should tell him what target fuel pressure is.
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Did that yesterday all the live diagnostics are coming back good
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10-08-2017, 11:00 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-08-2017, 11:03 AM by Poodle.)
No disrespect to your brother, but how hot is he on modern diesels? In my experience most mechanics are years out of date and don't understand what they should be looking for with common rail diesels. If he's confident then get your ecu sent off to get it de-immobilised, as there's nothing else that can prevent the car from starting besides that which is visible on diagnostics.
I'm assuming this is a random fault that has appeared out of nowhere and you haven't missed out some vital detail along the lines of "i hydro-locked the car yesterday" or "it's been sat for 7 years"..? Just asking, you'd be amazed at what people leave leave out sometimes lol.
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(10-08-2017, 11:00 AM)Poodle Wrote: No disrespect to your brother, but how hot is he on modern diesels? In my experience most mechanics are years out of date and don't understand what they should be looking for with common rail diesels. If he's confident then get your ecu sent off to get it de-immobilised, as there's nothing else that can prevent the car from starting besides that which is visible on diagnostics.
I'm assuming this is a random fault that has appeared out of nowhere and you haven't missed out some vital detail along the lines of "i hydro-locked the car yesterday" or "it's been sat for 7 years"..? Just asking, you'd be amazed at what people leave leave out sometimes lol.
he is 23 and been a mechanic since he was 17, he works for roger rescue as their main mechanic so any car the breaks down he has to repair.
i brought the car of a good mate as a non runner for £200 but it's got £210 worth of stuff i need on it and then more aswell so it is only a parts car for me and will be getting broke but an engine is worth more "running" than "non-runner".
car was being used daily, it's stage 1 mapped, guy who owned it said it just randomly started reving up and took off on its own then died, he seem to think it was turbo seals but there is minimal oil in intake manifold and oil still full in the engine itself. car went off the road about 6 months ago. been non runner since then and i brought her for parts and we found it wasn't the turbo seals so we have started investigating.
Update: the car now starts to fire about 5 times then cuts the fuel, stops the fuel going to the engine but it does start to fire. to get to this we changed the 2 ecu relays which were completely burnt out and now she begins to fuel but then cuts out.
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Ok cool, i'm with you. Bit confused then, does it smoke a lot when it tries to run?
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(13-08-2017, 05:14 PM)Poodle Wrote: Ok cool, i'm with you. Bit confused then, does it smoke a lot when it tries to run?
It does when it is on easy start but it has got its cats internals smashed out and no back box, still got center box though but it was running for a year with that set up
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That shouldn't make it smoke, is it white/grey smoke by any chance? My suspicion is that you've got a leaky injector or stuck fuel pressure reg, but that should show up when you look at the live data, provided you know exactly what you should be looking for. I've got a feeling Steve at hdi-tuning has done a bit of a guide on it that you could use for reference, but can't remember for the life of me where he posted it. Could be here or on his own website or possibly youtube.... have a google, sorry i can't be more specific.
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Fuel pressure is fine via live data. Injectors don't seem to be leaking anywhere, the smoke is white/grey but that's just from the easy start because it's solely running on it
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15-08-2017, 09:14 PM
(This post was last modified: 15-08-2017, 09:22 PM by Poodle.)
Easy start doesn't cause much smoke. White/grey smoke is usually unburnt diesel, but don't take my word for it - take a sniff, you'll soon see lol. The other option is oil burning off in the exhaust, but that isn't relevant in this case as your exhaust won't be hot enough.
Edit: Tbh whatever it is it doesn't sound like it's worth the effort for an extra £50...
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Stop it with the easy start ffs! It doesn't need it and is liable to cause damage if you go mad with it.
You need to know the fuel pressure and regulator duty cycle and engine speed - if there's no smoke when it's attempting to start, there will be fault codes associated, it sounds like you've got it on 3rd party diagnostics, which invariably won't read the codes correctly. Start a session on Peugeot Planet, then close it saving the logs into a "memory" location and upload the logs located at C:\APP\OUTILREP\TRACE\MEMO\traces*.zip.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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