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Pulled handbrake on hard and a cable snapped/Easy I thought just replace it. So went and got another cable. Its the left rear one. While about it I felt it would be a good idea to replace the discs and pads both sides So did that . I fitted the new cable but trouble is the yoke plate isn't now at 90 degrees to handbrake as I know it should be . I tried tightening it up and pulling hardish to see if the wheel is now locked. It was tight but i could still rotate the wheel by hand / Looking underneath I can see that I have tightened the cable to its limit and now the caliper hb lever is hard up to where the outer cable fits into the caliiper. That's never right so feel I broke something and its an old caliper of course. Is replacing caliper the answer or is there another reason ?
If I do change it I need to clamp the flexi cable to retain fluid so where is it as I can't see it unless I look in the wrong place. The chap with the car repair shop up the road should crack the fixing bolts for me. I just dont have the right tool for that do do so easily. I normaly use a T bar and a pipe for tough ones but dont think I have the room to do it. Ill get the car up fully at the back on a Ramp on the right and jack the left side and use axle stands. I hate doing it and it will take hours.
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How do I rewind the caliper. I did turn the piston back in and there was plenty of room for the new pads. The slider is stiff though while the one on the other side is fairly free meaning I can slide it with hands and yes the lever went all way to max. I am sure the cable is correct There's is only a choice of two one for drum/ with Abs and other for discs. I did the usual brake stamping and they seem to be working . Can I get lube on the slider somehow? Without doing anything hard. I like easy stuff. Not that I am inexperienced fixing cars as far as nuts and bolts fitting goes.
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28-07-2016, 04:24 PM
(This post was last modified: 28-07-2016, 04:40 PM by ROBCAT.)
I getting a caliper anyway . I am a pensioner and they wanted £30 for the sliderkit to bolt it back on . ALL I NEED IS TWO FRIGGIN BOLTS. If I knew the specs I could go to the agricultural parts supplier up the road and walk into an aisle full of nuts and bolts and spend 50p. Am I allowed to start a rant ?
!"£$%^&*()_!"£$%^&*()_!"£$%^&*()_+!!!!!!!!!
I feel a bit old to be taking cars to bits but with no dosh got no choice and my local workshop don't do charity jobs even if I smile with no teeth. Has anyone the specs so when I fit it all I might not see the wheel and sundry bit going past the window in a bad moment? I am not test pilot or a space shuttle astronaut. " Did you know I have just seen a section of heat shield fly past the starbord vision port". Not much difference between my pug and a tractor anyway
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oap, me too!! do you know of BIG RED, they do the small gaiters and the o rings, they may do the bolts also. why you need new bolts??
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The bolts will be fine. After winding the piston back the pedal has to be thoroughly pumped out before you reconnect the handbrake cable, otherwise the self-adjuster won't operate and the handbrake mechnism will have little effect when worked.
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Excellent advice so thanks. I'll play it by how it goes now.
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The problem is both hand brake cables are individual.
So with the use they get old and they start to elongate; if you have luck both elongate at the same rate and mantain even.
But sooner or later you get one cable longer than the other and there is no way to compensate or adjust that.
More if you fit a new cable; that one will no match with the old "elongated" cable of the other side. If you change one cable, then you have to change both.
(I think peugeot fit two wires for not loosing the hand brake in case of a cable break; you will always have hand brake operative at least in one tire with the downside that you cannot compensate when they get dispair)
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I did accept the difference and adjusted accordingly. Seems to be Ok as it passed its MOT. Probably then in reason thats allowable .