How to re-cable Single cable Regulators.

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Guide: How to re-cable Single cable Regulators.
#1
Well. I will try and do this as best i can.
I know re-wiring regulators can be a difficult task, some times testing. 

So without further ado. 

     - Once you have your regulator completely out. (plenty of how tos on you-tube.) 

It should look like this (below) 

[Image: 8D6049B9-72DB-4179-A4A0-85FEE42D40FE.jpg]

     - Make note that the rails are with guides on the out side, and the middle cable goes from bottom left, to top right. 

     - Now, turn the motor over, and remove the 4 T25 bolts holding the cover plate on. 

You should now have this (Below) 

[Image: 8A65A6F9-F1A5-4B9B-9579-34388BBECD69.jpg]

I do apologize for the finger  Nospeak
 
     - Make note, that the top ferrule, is for the left hand cable (which goes to the left hand rail) and the bottom is for the right. 
       this simply pulls out, sometimes if it has been in there a while a little persuasion is required, but dont worry, as this part is normally supplied with the kit. 


     - Now simply remove all the cable, keeping the rails in their respective position, it is easier to flip them over so the left becomes the right so we can access the wires directly. 
       make yourself aware that the rollers have little cut outs on, these make it easier to put the cable on them, as there is not enough space to simply slip the cable on. The bottom left            (now the right) has a little clip that goes over the track. This is because this one does not actually move. 

     - i started by re-winding the top cable. (below) 

[Image: 62CC7DB4-B4D0-4C3A-BA1F-8D146BCC367A.jpg]

As you can see the slide for the window is in its top position. 
This is were it got fiddly, and you will have to forgive the lack of photos, as 2 hands were required. (it may be better to get a friend (or wife) to help with this bit. 

     - re-wind the bottom cable, once both are on the spool, push the spool back in the housing. it will be very easy to get one cable stay in position. (the green bit with spring behind it) i        did the top on  first. 

     - now put the ignition on, and ask your helper to slowly lower the window. (1 push every second or so, so you have time to adjust your self to keep strain on the bottom cable stay) 
       this is to put the cable deep into the spool, and to get the slack you will so desperately need. keep going until the regulator hits the bottom. now you should have enough room to          just about get the cable stay in position. 

[Image: 68F00B2A-7E99-42E2-8D0D-CCC043C7EC3C.jpg] single handed operation was a tricky task


     - once it is in position, put the cover plate back on, and run the regulator fully up and down. 

        It is now ready for installation. 


     - Once you have your rails back in, do not tighten the retaining bolts just yet. secure the motor, put your glass in, and lower the window. now nip the bottom one up slightly. 

     - Take the window back up. now nip them ones up. take the window back down, and fully tighten them, and do the same for the top. 

     - Now you are ready for your final test. Run the window up and down a few times to make sure it is running ok. If it is a little slow, loose one rail off. If this makes a difference it is the           rail. If not then it is just the wire is so tight atm it needs to stretch a little, and should improve over the next week or so. 



If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask. I have done my best, and i know my grammar is not the best in the world but i do hope it is readable for you.


Kindest regards

Tony.
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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#2
Great guide, thanks. One question; how do the rollers come out, is that a circlip i spy in there?
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#3
i did not the the rollers out, as there was no need. The riollers have a small cut out on them, which allow the cable to go in.
(look at the 3rd picture, on the roller at the 4 o'clock position - thats the cut out)
try to explain here : -

when un-cabling - with the tension removed from the cable by removing the main pully, ensure the cut out is away from the cable sheaths. put the cable in the cut out, and rotate the roller towards the sheath,

there is not alot of room to simply pop or pop-off the cable, so the cut out allows you to thread the cable on, much like how you put your chain back on on your old bike when it comes off the front. Smile

fitting is the reverse or removal.
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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#4
Sorry, i meant the spool.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#5
no, there is nothing holding the main spool in place, other than the back plate. The part you see, is the spline the spool sits on. The old one simply slides off, (will need some sort of persuasion with a screwdriver lever) and the new one does simply slide back on Smile
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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#6
Brilliant, thanks.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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