twin pass FMIC

[toseland]

ok..

got a twinpass FMIC.. i have read varying thoughts as to this, and the overall concensus is..

A. they are slightly better
B. they are particularly easy to fit to the HDi's due to the location of the 2 connectors being on the front..


however... there is some conjecture with regards to the top and bottom connections as to which way should be in, and which way should be out. (ie which is air in and which is the air out).


someone makes a very good point that heat rises and as such the cooled air should be coming from the bottom...

what do you guys think?

also, someone please point me in the direction of the a guide to removing the front bumper.. ta..

[John1.4]

bumper - undo screws in the wheel arch liners, remove grill to make access to remove lights (you could potentially not bother removing the lights, but it does make a good amount of access)

then unbolt the bumper at both sides, remove from car


in terms of the IC it shouldn't make a difference in the real world which one you use for in and out? if there is a difference it'd be negligable... i'd do whatever is the easiest to do piping-wise

[Poodle]

The cold air should be coming out at the bottom lol. Unfortunately that would mean longer pipe routing as you'd have to cross the pipes over top to bottom. Tbh it makes bugger all difference as the air will go wherever the turbo is pushing it to, you're better off using the shortest piping possible.

Bumper off is four bolts (assuming you don't have any lower tabs left). Loosen the cammed plastic guides just inside the front of the arches. Then up behind the chassis end plate on each side are 3 nuts, the two diagonally opposed nuts are the ones you want, 10mm iirc. Removing the arch liners is essential, washer bottle helps too, but you'll still need a deep socket and a variety of extensions to do them quickly and easily. Oh, don't forget to uplug the fogs lol.

[Niall]

The cold air should be coming out at the bottom lol. Unfortunately that would mean longer pipe routing as you'd have to cross the pipes over top to bottom. Tbh it makes bugger all difference as the air will go wherever the turbo is pushing it to, you're better off using the shortest piping possible.

Bumper off is four bolts (assuming you don't have any lower tabs left). Loosen the cammed plastic guides just inside the front of the arches. Then up behind the chassis end plate on each side are 3 nuts, the two diagonally opposed nuts are the ones you want, 10mm iirc. Removing the arch liners is essential, washer bottle helps too, but you'll still need a deep socket and a variety of extensions to do them quickly and easily. Oh, don't forget to uplug the fogs lol.

God you make life hard work!!

Bumper is 2 bolts on PH3s for some reason, 1 on each side under the chassis legs immediately under the headlights. Undo those, remove the bottom covers from arch liners and pull the liners out from behind the bumper lip in the wheel well and slide off. If the bumper was fitted correctly last time round, you don't need to loosen the cammed plastic guides. Oh and if you have fogs, unplug them as there isn't much slack in the cables.

Don't need to take the washer bottle out. Jack the car up (or if you have small arms, don't bother) and just put your arm right up from the bottom in front on the washer bottle. 10mm spanner is easier to loosen then off then just take them off by hand. They don't rust so don't need ratcheting all the way off thankfully as there isn't much room up there!

[Toms306]

If the bumper was fitted correctly last time round, you don't need to loosen the cammed plastic guides.

You do know who previously worked on Toselands car right...?


Not sure why there are so many different bumper removal ideas on here! It is 4 bolts, 2 on each side, diagonally 10mm. The 13mm ones are for the slam panel so don't undo those.

I think the bumper still had tabs as well so they obviously need bolts removing. Don't need to remove lights (best not to as hockey sticks or clips will break lol). Don't need to remove washer bottle. Don't need to loosen the cammed levellers.

[Niall]

Who ever said the lights need removing?

Oh and if Tom worked on it, just give it a gentle tug and it will fall off

[Toms306]

Who ever said the lights need removing?

Oh and if Tom worked on it, just give it a gentle tug and it will fall off

John said about removing lights and grill above.

Lol, you're thinking of Sam...I tend to go too far the other way and things can never be removed after I've been at them!

[Niall]

Oh so he did! Pretty sure when they started fitting the ph3 bumper, they were only fitted with one 10mm nut either side. So a peugeot tech told me anyway lol

[Poodle]

What on earth am i thinking of then, slam panel perhaps? My bad lol. Stand by the rest of it though, i'd rather do it sat comfortably than on my back struggling to get a tool onto something i can't see and don't know exactly where it is... Mine did rust on unfortunately lol.

Edit: Ah so i was right after all, bellend. :p

[Toms306]

Peugeot tech's aren't always right... It is definitely 2 10mms for the bumper and a 13mm for the slam each side.

Must admit, I did remove the washer bottle first time, but I've removed/replaced so many now I can do it by feel.

[Frosty]

As far as I'm aware front bumpers are held on by 4 NUTS 2 either side. 1 per side is easy to get to the other is a bit more of a pain. It's the same throughout the phases

[Toms306]

Oh btw, what happened to using the search lol? Guide with pictures...

http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-7361.html

[Poodle]

Lol good point Frosty.

[Toms306]

As far as I'm aware front bumpers are held on by 4 NUTS 2 either side. 1 per side is easy to get to the other is a bit more of a pain. It's the same throughout the phases

Oops yeah...same difference though.

Surprised I put bolts tbh...it always annoys me when people refer to 'locking wheel nuts' on 306s haha.

[Piggy]

And they dont "lock" either Tom!

[Eeyore]

tbh id just route the IC the easiest way possible...

yes heat rises but there wont be any time for convection to happen as its all forced through and under pressure. IMO it will have no difference whatsoever!

[toseland]

well, i am going to need some slimline fans..

any recommendations?

[John1.4]

plenty of different size stuff on the ebay, depends what you want... twin 10 or 12's, single 12 / 14 / 16, none are particularly expensive though and all do the same job

[Frosty]

On my 2 cars I've fitted 2 12" fans. There are some on eBay for £20 or best offer. Think I got the for £18 each and they work fine

[Toms306]

And they dont "lock" either Tom!

Ah man, you're right...that's gonna annoy me now as well!

Whats worse that most of the most of the time people mean the key anyway... Genuinely received an email after selling a 306 a couple of years ago - 'Hi, Can't find the locking wheel nut in the boot'. Well that's not surprising really is it.

tbh id just route the IC the easiest way possible...

yes heat rises but there wont be any time for convection to happen as its all forced through and under pressure. IMO it will have no difference whatsoever!

I'm not sure it's quite that simple? Yes the air gets forced through quickly, but the IC will hold some of the heat (ever touched an IC after a hoon, much hotter than I ever expected!) so you really want the hot air to enter at the top where there will be more residual heat anyway imo. Will it make a noticeable performance difference, I really don't know, but I do know factory ICs tend to be mounted that way, or with both ports at the bottom (there are exceptions though). Why haven't MCM done a useful test like this so far?

[Eeyore]

well, i am going to need some slimline fans..

any recommendations?

Some of them are crap. You want the one with the curved blades not the flat ones.

Recommend this one.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181386359522?_...EBIDX%3AIT

[Frosty]

These are the 1s i got. They cool the car down no problem

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Universal-S...1e912b2206

[Rippthrough]

We run CBS's curved fans on the buggy, they shift some serious air for a slim fan. Used to make the car stall when they both came on together sometimes though