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Rebuilding an engine at the mo and going to be putting HDI rods in. I'm at the stage where I have dismantled the engine and am comparing the rods/shells.
I can't find any differences with the small end shells, so I'm guessing I can use whichever shells I like.
Big end I noticed a slight difference with the 'locating' bits, so I'm guessing I need to use HDI big end shells?
Just wanted to check with someone who's done this/knows before I buy them.because they seem expensive!
Also I have only compared size/weight of the rods by eye/weight in hand, but am I right in thinking that the HDI rods are both shorter and lighter?
Thanks for any replies, Ben
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The rods are the same length, and you do need the Hdi shells
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HDi shells are sputter bearings, if you look, you'll probably find that the upper shell is a slightly different colour/texture than the lower shell... They're a much better shell, very strong... That's why they're a lot more. They fit fine on XUD9 cranks, however.
Hdi Rods are the same length as XUD ones though...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. ![Wink Wink](https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/images/smilies/wink.png) Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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Thanks for the replies guys. Would you recommend any specific makes for shells, or get them from Peugeot, or would motor factor ones be fine?
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Glyco are very good, RichW on the GTi6 forum sells them too, other than that, motorfactors will be fine if they're to the same specs...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. ![Wink Wink](https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/images/smilies/wink.png) Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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are you going to get the engine re balanced?
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09-07-2012, 04:52 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-07-2012, 06:36 PM by Ben.)
Ok cheers Ruan. And I hadn't quite decided about that Daniel I was going to look into prices and consider it. Are you recommending I do then?
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Personally I wouldnt bother balancing the crank because its a massive ballache, just balance the piston and conrod assemblies themselves. Remove a shave of material off the bottom of the end caps to make the up and down movement of all 4 pistons exactly the same. I did this and lifting off at 5k doesn't put you through the windowscreen anymore. This is ofcourse if you're as pikey as me.
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You should take the metal off the side's of the big end, Im thinking about using the Hdi crank as it in better condition than the orignal, think that would be fine?
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The cranks have different belt end, so you need the pulleys from the HDI aswell, they are also spaced differently? although I cant confirm this I just know darren had issues with his HDI bottom end and belt alignment.
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The 8v is the same aligment, the 16v is different due to 16v head, pulleys are different between hdi / xud, you just need to use a matched pair, and it will work as alignment is the same...just dont mix 16v bits!
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its the t-belt pulley i need?
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just read through this, I don't understand the balancing part, can I not just bolt in hdi rods without balancing etc.?
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You can, but it's better if you balance the piston/rod assemblies.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. ![Wink Wink](https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/images/smilies/wink.png) Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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(25-07-2012, 05:48 PM)Ruan Wrote: You can, but it's better if you balance the piston/rod assemblies.
Guessing that's a specialised job?
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Just make sure all up movement is the same as down movement. It wont make any noticable difference over a stock xud tbh, because you still have 2 assemblies flying up, and two flying down, as long as these are in balance it shouldnt matter
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Ok cheers, will need to man up and get hdi rods fitted whilst doing the HG. just need to find some rods..
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