bosch vp or vr inj pump

[pug306driver]

Hi Guys,

Would any body have more info on the Bosch vr  fuel inj pump please, to include operation details as well as electronic unit test procedures.

The reason being the lads car ( we wanted an other 306 for obvious reasons but got this rust heap of an almera 2.2 dci turbo diesel ) died the other day. Sounded like a fuel problem. It was towed home ( his first time for being towed and he didn't ram the 306 up the arse !! so well done ) .

The car was all normal, having been used for about 60 miles that morning. He took his dorris to work and parked to do some shopping. Got back in car and drove normally for about 2 miles, with some "rolling" in busy traffic. The car seemed to stutter a bit but seemed to clear. Then on the up hill bit ( 200 yards?? ) , car splutters and dies. He left it for a few minutes and it started up ok and seemed to respond to the throttle all ok. He pulls off and the car dies. Plenty of fuel in tank as well as the extra gallon I put in by the road side.

Its been died since Saturday.

Don't think it was a vapour lock ( did not overheat according to the gauge and the fans work ) and don't suspect air leak in fuel delivery line.

Nissan Almera Y reg 2.2 dci turbo N16.

We could not hear the lift pump in the tank ( cos it aint got one !! ) but have proved the inj pump lift pump to be working, as fuel gushes forth from the disconnect return hose by the filter, so it pumps and has "drive". Its been blead and blead.

The tank unit was removed, cleaned, refitted, which is why we know there is no tank pump. No water or crap seen, but interestingly some "glitter", not much at all but 2 flecks seen. The floor bottom of the white plastic fuel pick up surround had a little crap as if water/dirty fuel has been in the tank. Unit looks similar to a 306 pump/gauge tank unit.

Does the vr pump have a drain plug I wonder.

 Fuel filter has water alert to ecm but if connection disconnected, no signal to ecm, a break and make float type sensor.

The engine runs on easy start so that parts seems all ok.

Still going round in circles a bit, ecm died, pump ecm died, immobiliser not giving inj system permission to work ??, but some concrete testing done.

The crank sensor is in resistance, and seems to produce a "signal".

Cam shafts turn so cam chains ( there are 2 on this dam thing, one driving the power steering pump and inj pump, a real bitch to get to etc..,which then drives the actual cams from the inj pump small sprocket, even more of a bitch bitch to get to. ) hopefully all ok. I will be removing the cam cover to check for a large valve clearance, so no bent valves.

I have also been wiggling some wires etc..

I had to get a clark dtc reader but that thinks the car is a petrol ???

The lad has done about 4k miles since may of this year ( commute to work, not on a bike now ) with no problems, no smoke, good fuel economy, goes well ( well it did before this ) and was a good starter, having just over 150k miles on the clock.

He will be coming over as my "assistant" this evening to see if the inj pump "clicks" when ign is turned on, as I don't have 6 foot arms etc..

I have been wondering if the throttle "pot and off throttle switch " has problems, but that's for tomorrow.

The "nats" immobiliser system seems to be working properly, if the indicator light is anything to go by,

Some definite test procedures and expected electronic contact resistances for the insides of the inj pump etc. would be of great help.

If the ecm or pump ecm has "gone" the car will probably be scrapped as too expensive a fix.

The pumps is a real bitch to remove/refit etc..

Any help/ideas ( apart from england's glory ) greatly appreciated.

[Ruan]

You need to get some proper diagnostics on it.

Is it a YD22DDT or YD22DDTi? One is Denso Commonrail, one is a Bosch VP44 system - if it's branded dCi it should be a DDTi which is the Denso CR system which is old and a bit batshit crazy.

If it's the CR one, ignore the pump - it'll be purely electrical as to why it's not running - again diagnostics required. If it's a VP44, the pumps die for no apparent reason.

[pug306driver]

Thanks ruan, its not common rail, but a rotor type pump similar looking to a vr, in so much it has horizontal inj pipe stubs with an electrical wire/s from the top mounted electronic unit to the centre of the inj pipes, electro magnet to a needle affair, fuel metering??

The other wire coming from the electronic box on the top goes to a 2 screws/ed on electro magnet affair which could well be the fuel pressure "kill", signal to this unit to allow pump to inject ( fuel pressure destroyed when no electric to this solenoid?? return spring inside ) .

The loom connection goes to the top of the pump, 6 lines from memory, ecm controlled via handshaking.

Will do some m ore research this evening, crawl under the car.

_Photo bucket has gone tits up, any other way of posting pictures on here ?

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Had a look at welshpugs exploded view of an inj pump, that has no electronic box on the top, so is not that type....

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welshpugs vp seal change in Technical section. Just spotted the web site it came from, doh !!

[Ruan]

That?

[pug306driver]

    Thanks ruan, similar but different, has 2 wires ( with 2 wires in sleeve ) rather than the one wire in the picture. Have pump id plate info and picture, will try and post picture now. Its a Japanese made bosch

Managed to get a dtc code finally, Nissan code 0704 which is an obd code of 1251 from memory, spill volts circuit.

info ( Poodle posted lots of 306 info as well as some test books, the brown covered one auto tech, exploded view of the vr bosch pump internals, really really usefull info, really well done dude !!!!!!!!!! ) suggests ( a ribbon cable in an inj pump ?? bloody hell, video camera problem was ribbon cable to flipout screen, ribbon cable UNOBTAINABLE FROM PANASONIC, so camera scrapped for sake of 20p ribbon cable, hah!!!!!! ) ribbon cable to cam ring and spped sensor inside inj pump, progesss, my arse !!

Spill control seems to be the solenoid controlled needle in the centre of the pump.

Lads doing some more research for me now.

https://fuel-inject.com/nissan%20diesel/167005M321/

am printing this info now for reference, as well as the exploded view to looksee and check.

so there is a ribbon cable in there, and drive is taper and keyed.

looks as if the spill solenoid may be a replacement part?? some more research needed, but going home to do test for spill unit power and earth on inj pump.

thankfully an inj pump can be removed/refitted without having to take the engine out. A special tool will need to be made to stop the inj pump sprocket falling and buggering to initial chain timing/chain auto adjusting, else its engine out. A real pita of a job.

   

[pug306driver]

Ok, continuity checks made between pump plug and ecm plug, all seems good. new pump or new parts or e bay special needed to get this car going again.