no brakelights

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no brakelights
#1
hi all

found out on the way home from picking up the d turbo that the brakelights dont work Confusedhock:

Got digging with a multimeter yesterday and I have no power to the brakelight terminal on the rear clusters. All other lights work corrently...Car came with a towbar so started with disconnecting towbar electrics in case something was shorting.

Its not the fuse because the reverse lights work, could it be the swtich on the brake pedal? How do I get to this to check it?

Input appreciated on this as we dont want to get hit up the backside at a junction Smile
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#2
Sounds like the switch


Up side down in the footwell looking up and above the pedal, being along time since I've had to finite, you may need. To move done sound deadening out the way to see it

Could be as simple as the wire has come off


So much easier to do on the 206, it's by the glove box on the passenger side
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#3
swampy Wrote:Sounds like the switch

Agreed, if both lights are off then you can expect it to either be a fuse (which you have checked), or the switch.
Captain Standard

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#4
how do I remove this switch? As it looks to be a right harse to even get my fingers on it
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#5
It is a right pain in the arse. Easiest way is to drop the steering column, get some good accsess there and maybe remove the drivers side vent.

The way I did mine was one hand underneath and one hand through the vent side, took about half hour to do. Nice easy job, just a pain in the arse trying to get to it
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TEAM CONROD SHITTING RALLYE!
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#6
yeah i done this on the 6 you can ither find someone with woman hands or do what i done and force my hand in there get switch off (the easy part) eventualy get ure hand back out coverd in cuts then try and get the bugger back in that was a mission and a half so good luck mate lol but yea i dropt steering column aswell altho there isnt much room anyway to my memory it just twists out.
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#7
the switch just twists out, towards the brake pedal?
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#8
No, it's got a number of notches on it to set the height of the switch, just pulls put. As Jordan said, girly hand through the drivers vent and it's in the middle of the steering column surround.
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#9
This thread has just saved me a load of time, expense and headaches.
Job sorted.
I didn't drop the column btw I went down the drivers heater route and took out the fuze box and now have the cut arms to prove it but worth it.
Brake lights are all good now, even when lightly breaking, which they were not doing before.
Not too bad a job all in all, just awkward.

Forums are great places for advice.
Keep posting!

Matthew
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#10
Searching does too, forums are great places to dig up really old threads Big Grin
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Stage 1 HDi DTurbo Diablo 5dr, "Dee-Dee"
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#11
I feel your pain on going the heater route, i did that one the first time, damn car drew blood on multiple occasions
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#12
Thumbs Up 
Still working fine. Proper pleased that something that cost me over £50.00 last time has been done at home for next to nothing.
I wasn't confident dropping the column in case I rounded bolts etc and could not reassemble but I'm sure its not that bad to do.
If you go the fan route you defo need the fuse box out too otherwise its just a little bit too demanding.

Hi 306 Dan, yeh the scratches are still healing!
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#13
to save future grief, get a small panel lamp (round one) from your local motor factor (MDC) and wire it into the feed to the high stop light in the rear window. point the lens at the interior mirror, then every time you dab the pedal, you can see if power is getting from the brake light switch. Wink
It goes, it stops (as reqd). Makeup
Hate Housework!
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