Ph3 Alarm Sensors

[Alan_M]

I'm trying to get the standard Ph3 Pug alarm to work on my car, and having a few problems.

The issue is when you lock it, the alarm goes off. Ultrasonics you might think, but I've pressed the button to isolate these from the system yet the alarm still goes off once locking via fob. Car is fine when locked with key, unlocks with fob OK too. Assuming the alarm uses the door shut sensors, I can rule these out as working because the interior light (front and rear) illuminates/goes out. Again, the tilt switch in the boot lid operates/turns off the boot light. Now, last of all is the bonnet shut sensor. I can't locate the typical alarm door shut sensor anywhere under the bonnet (behind the drivers headlight I understand?).

Can someone confirm the bonnet shut sensor on a Ph3 is behind the drivers headlight?

[cully]

the sirens and the ultrasonics are the weak points on the 306 alarm system

[Alan_M]

the sirens and the ultrasonics are the weak points on the 306 alarm system

I've cancelled out the ultrasonics by disarming them from the system, yet the alarm still goes off. Would a faulty siren cause problems to the actual alarm, as I would guess a faulty siren would only stop making a noise rather than making the entire system spontaneously go-off.

I would still like to know where the bonnet shut sensor is though, as I cannot find mine!

[Niall]

Also, has this only started since the cold weather? My battery died slowly over winter and caused these issues.
The alarm registers a sudden voltage drop and sets the alarm off.

[cully]

the bonnet shut switch is connected directly to the bonnet catch at the centre front of the car, there is two small black wires running from O/side wing through the slam panel to a very small microswitch in the catch mechenisum

[Alan_M]

the bonnet shut switch is connected directly to the bonnet catch at the centre front of the car, there is two small black wires running from O/side wing through the slam panel to a very small microswitch in the catch mechenisum

There is a good photo in the Haynes manual showing the switch. Unfortunately, my 306 does not have one attached to the bonnet catch! I'll take the grill off tomorrow and see if it's fallen off, but this may be the issue.

Surely, a Peugeot alarm system (9673 1V) would've been fitted with the bonnet shut switch. I have the alarm operating instructions and it clearly states 4 x door sensors, boot sensor, bonnet sensor and interior sensors. It wouldn't work correctly otherwise!

[Niall]

Alan its all dependant if your alarm is factory or dealership fitted. Some models came with a alarm as standard from the factory but it was an option on all models for an alarm. This was dealership fitted and is completely different to the factory one. The factory one uses the microswitch as Cully says, the dealership one uses a plunger switch usually mounted in the top of the slam panel.

[Piggy]

niall maybe on the money too, as the car locks, there will be a dip in voltage, a poor battery may thus give enough dip to trip the alarm.

[Niall]

Depends how quickly the alarm goes off. The alarm isn't active for the first 30-45 seconds after locking to give everything time to go to sleep and for the draw to settle right down. Once it does settle, the alarm monitors voltage for any rise. Also, if theres anything aftermarket in your car, it could be causing a fluctuation in voltage if its trying to turn on/off whist the car is locked.

[Alan_M]

Alan its all dependant if your alarm is factory or dealership fitted. Some models came with a alarm as standard from the factory but it was an option on all models for an alarm. This was dealership fitted and is completely different to the factory one. The factory one uses the microswitch as Cully says, the dealership one uses a plunger switch usually mounted in the top of the slam panel.

I've banged in the chassis number to ServiceBox, and tells me it had no alarm fitted from factory. So I'm guessing it's a dealership fitment. But, there is no plunger in sight. 

Depends how quickly the alarm goes off. The alarm isn't active for the first 30-45 seconds after locking to give everything time to go to sleep and for the draw to settle right down. Once it does settle, the alarm monitors voltage for any rise. Also, if theres anything aftermarket in your car, it could be causing a fluctuation in voltage if its trying to turn on/off whist the car is locked.

According to my instruction booklet, the alarm lets doors, boot, bonnet, ignition settle for the first 5 secs before arming those, then the ultrasonics settle for 50 secs before arming. 

I've a few avenues to head down to sort this out, but the lack of a bonnet shut switch won't help. I'll have a play tomorrow.

[Niall]

Right in which case, its anyones guess where the switch is. They had instructions where parts SHOULD of been fitted but it was up to how lazy the technician was feeling on that day lol

[Alan_M]

Thinking about this, the only reason I want to sort the alarm is so I can lock the car with the fob.

I can do this by permanently disabling the alarm (I understand the immobiliser is separate - Need to keep that for insurance purposes).

Is it straight forward to disconnect the alarm system? I'm already missing the bonnet switch, so part way there!