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23-12-2012, 10:54 PM
Basically been having problems with my car not starting if you turn it off for more than a few minutes but if you leave it for say 20-30minutes its fine again so bought myself pp2000.
Managed to get it sorted (kind of) and scanned all codes cleared them and then got the car to do its annoying non starting thing and re read the code and i'm getting:
"Intermittent Fault. Cylinder reference sensor. Consistency when stopped."
Because i've done the timing belt myself i've got myself paranoid! So if anyone could shed some light on this for me please.
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Sounds like either the camshaft or crankshaft position sensor needs either a) plugging back in if you've possiby knocked it slightly loose, causing an intermittent connection, or b) replacing because its faulty
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that answers that one i had my suspicion as i disconnected the camshaft sensor and i think i moved it so i will take a look tomorrow and hopefully get it sorted cheers.
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Started playing up again with a brand new camshaft sensor although not all the time now its just purely luck if it starts or not although if you turn the key back to the off position the. Go to crank again it starts first time anyone have any ideas??
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Could be a dodgy cable in the loom.
It might be worth doing a continuity check on the cables from the sensor to the ECU, while doing the check wiggle the wires and see if the continuity drops?
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Is it still the same code?
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Try waiting a few more seconds with the ignition on before cranking, my old HDi used to not start if i tried straight after the glowplug light went off, but if I waited for a few more seconds it always went 1st go. Also my current one has done it once, had to turn it off, wait a minute then tried again and it was fine.
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(11-03-2013, 10:22 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: Is it still the same code?
Yeah same code and checked the wiring and plug no problems there.
(11-03-2013, 11:04 PM)Jonny81191 Wrote: Try waiting a few more seconds with the ignition on before cranking, my old HDi used to not start if i tried straight after the glowplug light went off, but if I waited for a few more seconds it always went 1st go. Also my current one has done it once, had to turn it off, wait a minute then tried again and it was fine.
That's what mines like only really happened scince I have done the timing belt but when I bought a new camshaft sensor I had no problems for ages now it just does it when it feels like it....
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As an update both have been replaced faults cleared ran and started fine then got it home tried to start it and wouldn't start for a good 10minutes then started fine again I really don't get it and its still throwing up the cylinder reference sensor fault aswell anyone else got any ideas?
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I take it you've checked the loom and it's fine?
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I've had a look at the loom and it seems fine to me but I suppose it could be knackered somewhere down the line wonder whether its worth stripping it out and taking a closer look when I replaced the crankshaft sensor the plug didn't have the bit that locks onto the sensor so had to use a cable tie but I can't see that being the problem?
Any other advice would be great as I thought I had cured this along time ago
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Anybody got any ideas I think I'm going to strip the loom out today and check the earths aswell as I have noticed the clock reset itself a few times.
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Just a silly one but what is the state of the connector? no rust or corrosion within the block is there?
Check the entire loom for breaks and make sure there are no kinks that would put wires at risk of breakage in the plastic casing.
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(18-03-2013, 08:28 AM)Rich306 Wrote: Just a silly one but what is the state of the connector? no rust or corrosion within the block is there?
Check the entire loom for breaks and make sure there are no kinks that would put wires at risk of breakage in the plastic casing.
Funny thing is I've not had a problem for ages and the fault its throwing up surely should be fixed now so its all a mystery!!
Think removing the loom is going to be my best bet just really don't have the energy for it at the moment as not feeling 100% but I will strip the loom out if the weather picks up abit and check
It all
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When you say you've had a look, what do you mean exactly? Cos you'll usually struggle to find electrical issues by eye...
Need a multimeter to check the wires between the sensor and the ecu for continuity and resistance. Only other thing it could be is a loose sensor/connection, its a fairly limited problem tbh.
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(18-03-2013, 10:25 AM)Poodle Wrote: When you say you've had a look, what do you mean exactly? Cos you'll usually struggle to find electrical issues by eye...
Need a multimeter to check the wires between the sensor and the ecu for continuity and resistance. Only other thing it could be is a loose sensor/connection, its a fairly limited problem tbh.
You've hit the nail on the head although I have a vast knowledge of
Things testing electrics is my weak point I have a multimeter but can only use it to test wires for voltage eg pressing brakes turns the wire to 12v and so on.
Do you have a guide on how to check the "continuity and resistance"?
Thanks for the replys.
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Theres various electrical theads in the guide section, probably something there.
Im not so hot on electrics myself tbh, could do it if its in front of me, but dont know well enough to describe it im afraid.
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(18-03-2013, 11:32 AM)Poodle Wrote: Theres various electrical theads in the guide section, probably something there.
Im not so hot on electrics myself tbh, could do it if its in front of me, but dont know well enough to describe it im afraid.
appreciate all the help had a quick search but cant find anything of relevance i have given cully a PM as he seems to know his stuff.
Will be taking a look in abit at the loom see whats what.
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18-03-2013, 05:32 PM
(This post was last modified: 18-03-2013, 05:54 PM by cully.)
info for you regarding pin numbers on the ecu and pin numbers on the sensors
to test the power too the camshaft sensor set the multimeter to volts DC
unplug the sensor and probe pins 1 and 3 you should read 5v with the ing on (engine not running)
wiggle the wires that are exposed in the loom and see if you loose the 5v supply
if you do........
probe pin 3 and put the other prob on 12+ you should read 12v this is checking the earth wire from pin 3 back to the ecu wiggle the wires to see if the voltage drops off
if it drops off the earth path back to the ecu is broken
if it dosn't.........
probe pin1 and put the other probe to a good ground point this is checking the sensor supply line (5v) from pin 1 to the ecu wiggle the wires to see if the voltage drops off
if it drops off the supply path from the ecu is broken
if it dosn't..........
turn off ignition wait 5 mins then disconect the battery
unplug the ECU plug
set multimeter to OHMS you are measuring resitance now! short probes together this gives you a low reading remember it (1-3ohms ish)
this is the figure you are hopping to see when you test the last wire
probe pin 2 on the sensor white plug(wire side) with the other probe, probe pin 18 on the ecu plug (wire side)
you should see the same low resistance reading as when you shorted the leads
wiggle the exposed wires in the loom
if the resistance go's low to high while wiggaling it would point to a broken sensor wire
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you sir have been repped unfortunately found that the turbo is leaking oil so gonna be taking the engine out this weekend so i cant test the wires but i remember when i bought it that 3 wires were soldered together and dodgy wires somewhere else aswell so going to get myself a new loom i reckon.
But cully great write up and hopefully it will come to use for someone else like it will for me.
James
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Right made the decision in going to have the engine out as the turbos either leaking or there's a leak somewhere as there's oil all down the back of the engine which I had cleaned best I could and its back so may aswell get on with doing that. Will start a new thread soon.
James
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