Cambelt changed 25k, 11 years ago - does it need changing?

[heyitsroth]

As above - don't use the car that much and it was off the road for a few years.  Can't find anyhting in the manual about it, and haynes only mentions mileage.

If it does need changing, I know to change the water pump at the same time, but I've also seen advice to change pulleys/tensioners as well as the aux belt and its tensionsers.  Sound like good advice?

Thanks

[allye]

Change it ASAP! And yes if budget allows do all idlers, tensioner and aux belt.

[Frosty]

Yes it's way overdue it on time. As for replacing the idler and tensioner on the xud they don't seem to give much issue at all and most the time i don't bother changing them as long as they feel and sound ok when i spin the with the belt off. Plus the tensioner can be a right sod to change on the xud engines. I personally would just do the belt and water pump as long as the tensioner and idler seem ok.

[zx_volcane]

Belt and waterpump for sure - get them changed asap, 11years is along time.

For the sake of the work / cost of parts I would do the cambelt pulleys as well.

aux belt and tensioner you can easily inspect for condition and replace if you need to.

[Eeyore]

Definitely. It's only rubber etc so it will all perish and crack.

[heyitsroth]

Thanks for the replies, guess I should have the timing belt changed!

As far as I can tell, the idler and tensioner increase the cost by about 3-4 times, so whats the consensus on replacing those? Do they break often? I'll be having this done at a garage so I won't really be in a position to test them before buying parts..

Also, is there much difference between belt manufacturers? Any recommendations? Or should I just buy from Peugeot

[Dave]

How much is the car worth?, personally I would check the rollers/idlers myself and then gauge and probably risk it if I was doing it myself for my car, but remember all seals etc on the rollers will be 11 years old. Its unlikely that these will fail without making noise/giving some indication, its the belt that drops the bomb.

If you're getting this done at a garage different story, just get the full kit its only about 80 quid or something.

That being said, if it is a real cheap run about, and you really are being that tight, get the garage to change just the belt (note they will still charge you most of the cost of doing the idlers and tensioner anyway, due to already being down there to slacken belt with all covers being off engine locked etc). You wont actually save much much at all (25 quid for belt vs 90 odd with the full kit, but add another 150 for them to do the labour regardless of tensioner/idler change or not).

To be tight you need to also know what you can/cant get away with when cutting corners on your motor, and getting the garage to unwillingly do this for you will definitely bite you in the arse, especially when it comes to the difference between things that could be done, should be done, and need to be done.

[heyitsroth]

Yeah good point, it would be worth the extra money to prevent me from worrying about it tbh - especially since there is a sqeaking noise coming from the engine bay!  

I think I'll get him to change the aux belt at the same time, but just check the aux belt tensioners.


Couple more questions though - when talking about replacing idlers/tensioners/pulleys etc, that just means 10 and 7 on this picture right:



I've got a crankshaft pulley coming up on GSF and I just wanted to make sure

And does anyone know why there a choice of parts on servicebox sometimes?  There's superseded parts, where I guess they've been able to source or make it cheaper over the years?  But there's also parts marked with "age >= 3" - I presume this means they're for a car more than 3 years old, and seem to always be cheaper, but is this because they are inferior or something?