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+-- Forum: Engines (https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=16)
+--- Forum: XUD Section (https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=11)
+--- Thread: headgasket change (/showthread.php?tid=8838)
headgasket change - dec-66 - 11-12-2012
any tips and advice on taking the head off an xud i know abit about mechanics but aint got the money for a garage to do it so any advice on doing a headgasket change
cheers
RE: headgasket change - stevedturboxud - 11-12-2012
Relativly easy job make sure a metal head gasket 5 notch is used its a must. Other than that i followed the haynes manual
RE: headgasket change - Jonny81191 - 11-12-2012
Why would a 5 notch be a must?
RE: headgasket change - c.gerrard - 11-12-2012
Well, you're in for a day of pain, suffering, agony, blood, sweat and tears, wondering why you are living and why you are bothering....
But in the end, its worth it
Don't forget about the dowel in the engine mount arm. Seems a popular one to forget about! (Talking from experience)
RE: headgasket change - stevedturboxud - 11-12-2012
Ment to say the steel one is a must doesent realy matter if its 3 or 5 notch had a had experience with those corky looking ones
RE: headgasket change - Matty - 12-12-2012
Mani's off, front & rear coolant hoses, thermostat block on front right, lock off timing, un-tension cambelt and slide it off (if you're not changing any of it, leave the belt to one side, and do the pivot nut back up on tensioner, so when you take the nut that adjusts it out of the head, it stays in the slack position so it don't fall off and make the spring fly out..), the dowel in the side of the head on the engine mount - take out the bolt (13mm) then m10 bolt into the dowel with some big/thick washer(s) so when you screw into it, it will want to come out with the bolt, if not, just pull the fucker out with some brute force, injector lines off the injectors, take off glow plug feed, take off pipe on the vacuum pump, bracket on the crank end that holds a hose on (next to the thermostat block/fuel filter and is a 13mm on the side of the head) - (from memory), undo head bolts in opposite order of tightening sequence, lift the head and take the locating dowel out that came with it.
Reverse what you did, cleaning the faces or getting head skimmed. What ever floats your boat.
Tightening order:
8 4 1 5 9
7 3 2 6 10
Stage 1: 20nm
Stage 2: 60nm
Stage 3: 220 degrees
Job done.
Probably missed the odd bit, but most of it's there.
I suppose I should of just bullet pointed it...
RE: headgasket change - dec-66 - 12-12-2012
Ok nice one will have a crack at it wen its a bit warmer outside
Cheers for the comments much appreciated
RE: headgasket change - ginge191 - 12-12-2012
(12-12-2012, 12:46 PM)dec-66 Wrote: Ok nice one will have a crack at it wen its a bit warmer outside
Cheers for the comments much appreciated
....you're going to get pretty warm anyway
Good luck!
RE: headgasket change - Matty - 12-12-2012
(12-12-2012, 12:46 PM)dec-66 Wrote: Ok nice one will have a crack at it wen its a bit warmer outside
Cheers for the comments much appreciated
Don't talk wet!
I've been currently outside in the freezing cold at night replacing rods...
Man up.
teehee
RE: headgasket change - dec-66 - 12-12-2012
haha i will man up eventually