(01-09-2018, 06:59 PM)simo2007 Wrote: Managed to change the lower arms today (including ball joints). Wasn't too much hassle apart from cleaning up threads prior to unbolting. 

Tracking is now out a country mile so I'll be going to get the front wheels aligned perhaps tomorrow morning!

Top bush on the picture directly below (on both arms on the car) was completely gone!

(02-09-2018, 08:29 AM)JTaylor2005 Wrote:

(01-09-2018, 06:59 PM)simo2007 Wrote: Managed to change the lower arms today (including ball joints). Wasn't too much hassle apart from cleaning up threads prior to unbolting. 

Tracking is now out a country mile so I'll be going to get the front wheels aligned perhaps tomorrow morning!

Top bush on the picture directly below (on both arms on the car) was completely gone!

Keep up the good work!

I did the same withe stage 1+ map from HDI-Tuning. Drove down fine, drove back with the clutch slipping whenever I put my foot down haha.

An 800 mile tank sounds difficult to reach though. What driving do you do to get that? :O

(10-10-2018, 08:22 AM)Toms306 Wrote: There are small C shaped clips that push through holes in the socket at the end of the linkage and then fold over the bar, they can be a right pain to fit as they're so fiddly.  Usually come already fitted, were your linkages brand new or used?

(10-10-2018, 10:48 AM)Toms306 Wrote: I've never seen those ones tbh!  The usual ones come with this sort of fitting, you can see the clip fits across the hole here.

http://constella.co.uk/home/index.php/component/virtuemart/gear-linkages-quickshifts/group-n-linkages/6mm-ball-joint-detail?Itemid=0

(10-10-2018, 05:44 PM)Frosty Wrote: The linkages you bought should still do the job but maybe they are just poor quality. As Tom has said most people just go for the uprated ones, usually either ones from baker bm or mile (pug racing). I've personally got a couple sets of baker ones on my 306s and ones from miles on my 205.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-106-GTi-6-Rallye-XSI-XS-Turbo-Gear-Linkage-Rods-Set-of-3/281762521830?hash=item419a5ae2e6:g:uoQAAOSwDNdVu4y2

http://www.bakerbm.com/306.php?data=gearrods306

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Oh and good work on getting it all back together and running. Look forward to a more detailed update.

(11-10-2018, 07:19 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Good work Simo. You've managed to do more in a couple of months than I have in the past year! Really pleased for you that it's gone so we'll considering the car's sentimental value.

(11-10-2018, 01:04 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: All that in 3 weeks ....impressive!  My GF would get the hump if I spent 3 weekends in a row dedicated to the car without spending a bit of time with her!  She already jokes that I love my 306's more than I do her.  Not quite true ....just almost

I have a couple of 16v XSi's.  Engines seem good so no need to strip them down as things stand.  Both currently have pretty much everything stripped off the rear end, incl fuel tank.  Hoping to find the time soon to clean up, repaint & seal the underside. Wish it had happened over the Summer but work n other things there wasn't the opportunity.  One of the beams has been fully rebuilt, have new mounts, new brake lines made up, have new brake compensators and rear calipers have been rebuilt ready to go on.  Also have some new bilstein rear shocks.  Need to sort out an issue on one with the tank not breathing (prob blocked charcoal canister).  Have seen on good ol' Youtube that some people have managed to recondition theirs by opening it up and filling with new activated charcoal.  May be blocked breather of course.  (EVAP solenoid tested & works fine).  There is a small patch of welding that needs doing on the n/s wheel arch, but not as bad as some have had to deal with.  Will leave that one to the local garage - one of the guys down there is pretty handy with a mig & I only have an arc welder & no power at the garage I rent.  (That is a monumental pain in the ass, but do have a small genny that will run some power tools.  Should get round to investing in some rechargeable power tools but the good ones are pretty expensive!).

Once the rear is sorted the engine will come out to get the rust in the bay sorted.  (Yours looks pretty clean - was it garaged most of its life?).  Clutch & clutch cable change planned at the same time, and think the gearbox could do with an overhaul.  Company in Bristol have said they'll do it for £350, which I can live with.  Front calipers to be rebuilt and one side needs a new wheel bearing.  Will prob do crank seals while engine is out.  In addition, apart from some new Bilstein shocks up front that's pretty much it as most of the suspension components are ok & rad seems fine too.  I was going to take some advice though on whether it's worth getting the steering rack recon'd whilst everything is out.

Was also considering getting the dash out to replace the heater matrix - have bought genuine Valeo / Beru items ready to go in (one is an AC model, the other not) & would rather pre-empt any issues that might lead to coolant loss.

Plan then is to keep one on the road as a daily while the other gets fettled with.  If I've learned anything so far is that a car this age doesn't go very long without throwing up some issue that needs attention!

(12-10-2018, 04:26 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: I don't think the heater matrix is a particularly nice job to do.  The dash has to come out which means lots of awkward bolts to remove and a lot of other stuff to unplug.  I think the book time for an experienced mechanic is about 6 hours, so first time it's likely to take me 3 times as long!  There are some good guides on the web which explain some of the pitfalls.  The first thing to know is that air con and non-air con models had different heater boxes and different matrix's.

I'm no expert on the shocks/springs.  I do know many others go for Bilstein B6's, which are a slightly stiffer shock than OEM which are designed to work with slightly lowered suspension.  Many seem to go for -30mm Eilbach springs.  Personally, I'm planning to stay at standard height as I'm not taking the car on track and drive on quite a few crappy roads.  I've got some genuine Peugeot springs and Bilstein B4's (OEM equivalent) to go on.  The springs aren't cheap from Peugeot.  Soon after I got the S-reg red XSi about 3 years ago though I decided the suspension was tired and put on some Sachs springs with (I think) Monroe shocks.  It wasn't a good combination from day 1.  Apart from anything the front didn't sit at the right height.  Some investigation revealed that the springs from various aftermarket manufacturers are often different lengths and different gauge of steel from OEM spec!

As for the gearbox, £350 may be steep but I know Gloucester Rd Gearboxes in Bristol have a good reputation.  Some gears were getting difficult to engage and although it could have been the clutch or cable at fault, the fact that the oil looked like silver metallic paint when I drained it from the box made me think otherwise!  Which reminds me ...it will also be getting a new clutch, cable and the fancy linkages you've been discussing above!

(22-10-2018, 07:11 AM)simo2007 Wrote: I have the metal insert to the lower radiator connection, held on by a spring clip, as shown on the left in the image, and I've found a part number of 1343Z4 for the o-ring, can anyone advise if this is correct?

(23-10-2018, 08:23 AM)Toms306 Wrote:

(22-10-2018, 07:11 AM)simo2007 Wrote: I have the metal insert to the lower radiator connection, held on by a spring clip, as shown on the left in the image, and I've found a part number of 1343Z4 for the o-ring, can anyone advise if this is correct?

Don't think so, it's only listed for the petrol radiators with in-built header tank.  Not listed for diesels with the standalone rads.  I can't find the o-ring part number for the diesel one though, it might be the same size but I thought the diesel hoses were bigger.