Engine swap questions - Printable Version

Engine swap questions - Printable Version

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Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 03-07-2014

Expect a few questions in the next week or so as its my first time doing any form of engine swap

First thing is I'm changing the clutch on the engine out of the car - which way does the friction plate go in? [Image: sezabaty.jpg]

Second is while I'm doing the swap i need the car to be moveable in and out of the workshop - what's the best way to do this?

RE: Engine swap questions - Niall - 03-07-2014

(03-07-2014, 06:46 PM)rocker8742 Wrote: Expect a few questions in the next week or so as its my first time doing any form of engine swap

First thing is I'm changing the clutch on the engine out of the car - which way does the friction plate go in?
Or

Second is while I'm doing the swap i need the car to be moveable in and out of the workshop - what's the best way to do this?

Cant remember what way around the pressure plate goes but do not put the car back down on the wheels with no drive shafts as they basically hold the bearings together. Ive seen people do this before, push a car about and half the hub falls off with the wheel and brake lol

RE: Engine swap questions - cully - 03-07-2014

think its picture two for the clutch
as picture 1 looks close the the flywheel bolts Wink

RE: Engine swap questions - bashbarnard - 03-07-2014

Picture two. As a rule of thumb the larger pertrusion goes to gearbox side thus allowing more contact on the input shaft

RE: Engine swap questions - Connor - 03-07-2014

It should say which way it goes, something like g/box side or trans side, fwheel side

RE: Engine swap questions - Toms306 - 03-07-2014

It should say 'gearbox side' on it. But I'm pretty sure its the 2nd pic as well tbh.

Edit - Too slow lol

Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 03-07-2014

Went with the second pic in the end but didnt check for any markings so hopefully it's right

And I take it in that case I need to leave the shafts in the hub end and pop them out of the gearbox niall?

RE: Engine swap questions - Niall - 03-07-2014

yep Smile

RE: Engine swap questions - cully - 03-07-2014

i guess my engine crane is working ok then Wink

Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 03-07-2014

It's been a great use shifting the new engine about so far thanks Paul Smile

load leveller would be useful though Tongue

RE: Engine swap questions - Frosty - 03-07-2014

When I needed to move my car around with the engine out I had some ends of drive shafts that I used to hold the bearings together. Poss be able to dig them out if you want to borrow them?

RE: Engine swap questions - Jonny81191 - 04-07-2014

Yeah, chop the ends or dismantle the cv joint, leaves just the bit that holds the bearing together.

RE: Engine swap questions - cully - 04-07-2014

(03-07-2014, 10:45 PM)rocker8742 Wrote: It's been a great use shifting the new engine about so far thanks Paul load leveller would be useful though

could always buy one as a thank you present Tongue

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cll500-load-leveller

Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 04-07-2014

Anybody got any tips before I start this tomorrow? And thanks for the offer Matt ill see how I get on leaving the shafts in for the time being

RE: Engine swap questions - cully - 04-07-2014

take your time and mark stuff
bleed the air out the block by using the bottle in the rad method its easyer Wink

RE: Engine swap questions - Toms306 - 05-07-2014

(03-07-2014, 07:19 PM)Niall Wrote: ...do not put the car back down on the wheels with no drive shafts as they basically hold the bearings together. Ive seen people do this before, push a car about and half the hub falls off with the wheel and brake lol

Didn't realise this! Confused

I've done it more than once with breakers and never had wheels fall off lol. Will know for future though! lol

(03-07-2014, 10:45 PM)rocker8742 Wrote: It's been a great use shifting the new engine about so far thanks Paul load leveller would be useful though

Load leveller? That's what a seat belt is for isn't it! Big Grin

As for tips, keep the area tidy, keep things in the order they were removed if possible then it's simply the reverse of removal. And theres no rush, take your time as cully says.

RE: Engine swap questions - RetroPug - 05-07-2014

Use sealable clear plastic bag things and a marker pen and put little bits in them and write on the bags what they came off of.
If you're taking off 50+ little bits and 'remembering' what each bit was for and where you put it you'll not get everything in the right place, and you'll have an engine in and 8 bolts and a bracket left over wondering what is going to blow up 50m down the road.

Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 06-07-2014

For those of you that have left the driveshafts in the hubs for an engine swap what's the best way to get them out of the box?

Also what's the best thing to do about the pas pump and pipe that runs under the engine?

RE: Engine swap questions - Niall - 06-07-2014

(06-07-2014, 11:20 AM)rocker8742 Wrote: For those of you that have left the driveshafts in the hubs for an engine swap what's the best way to get them out of the box?

Also what's the best thing to do about the pas pump and pipe that runs under the engine?

Just pull them out. They aren't fixed in the box. Just sit in there.

Pas pipe, just remove it from the PAS pump and tuck it under the car so its out the way until you fit the new engine

RE: Engine swap questions - PUGNUT_XS - 07-07-2014

(03-07-2014, 07:19 PM)Niall Wrote:
(03-07-2014, 06:46 PM)rocker8742 Wrote: Expect a few questions in the next week or so as its my first time doing any form of engine swap

First thing is I'm changing the clutch on the engine out of the car - which way does the friction plate go in?
Or

Second is while I'm doing the swap i need the car to be moveable in and out of the workshop - what's the best way to do this?

Cant remember what way around the pressure plate goes but do not put the car back down on the wheels with no drive shafts as they basically hold the bearings together. Ive seen people do this before, push a car about and half the hub falls off with the wheel and brake lol

Picture 2 for definate, the clutch plate should tell you wich side too, before you fit it, remove the flywheel and give it a good clean and inspect it for any cracks, or distortion, also check it for heat damage, this takes the form of a bluish sheen, dont worry as the flywheel can be skimmed. with the flywheel off i would replace the crankshaft rear main oil seal too, as these do eventually leak as the miles creep up. Make sure that when you put it all back together you locktight the flywheel bolts and tourque them to the correct setting, if you have the cash get a new set of bolts from peugeot. Use a good clutch alignment tool as if you miss align it you will never get the box back in. Grease the gearbox input shaft with graphite grease, most people use copper grease but in my experience graphite is better. If its the GTI box make sure you have the clutch fork aligned with the release baring as it goes in. Hope this helps.

Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 19-07-2014

If its the GTI box make sure you have the clutch fork aligned with the release baring as it goes in. Hope this helps.

Think I ballsed this part up today lol if its not lined up what am I likely to experience? Would the clutch arm not line up properly with the shaft?

RE: Engine swap questions - Niall - 19-07-2014

(19-07-2014, 07:16 PM)rocker8742 Wrote: If its the GTI box make sure you have the clutch fork aligned with the release baring as it goes in. Hope this helps.

Think I ballsed this part up today lol if its not lined up what am I likely to experience? Would the clutch arm not line up properly with the shaft?

Because its a pull clutch, as you push the box on you need to twist the release arm behind the bearing. If you just fit it, the clutch pedal just wont do anything. It can be a bit of a bastard to do especially if your on your own to try and work the arm in place and get the input shaft in whilst wiggling the box on lol.

Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 19-07-2014

Lol yeah wasn't watching to see if that was aligned. Bugger

RE: Engine swap questions - Toms306 - 19-07-2014

Lol, pull type clutches suck! Sam and I spent hours trying to get that bugger lined up. Dodgy

Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 19-07-2014

At least I'm doing this out of the car then lol

RE: Engine swap questions - Seb_Ryan - 19-07-2014

Once youve done it once its easy lol

Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 20-07-2014

Gearbox is sorted now, thanks lads

Next problem is the loom lol anyone tell me what these are for?

[Image: 2yqegaqy.jpg]

Both around the throttle body area, but can't find anything to plug them into, and I know neither of them are that silly spare map sensor plug

Engine swap questions - rocker8742 - 20-07-2014

Figured the blue one goes to the PAS pipe at the front of the block, still don't know about the black one

RE: Engine swap questions - Dave - 28-07-2014

(03-07-2014, 07:19 PM)Niall Wrote: Cant remember what way around the pressure plate goes but do not put the car back down on the wheels with no drive shafts as they basically hold the bearings together. Ive seen people do this before, push a car about and half the hub falls off with the wheel and brake lol

Not quite sure this is right

Think you might be confused with the bearings on the driveshaft if you push the car around with the driveshafts in then the roller bearings from the driveshafts fall out if the shaft flexes too much in one direction. Ive pushed many 306's about with no shafts in and not had an issue.

RE: Engine swap questions - Piggy - 28-07-2014

Its very inlikely to happen but I have seen it happen once on a rally puma, but the owner had pushed it round for months.

RE clutch: second one!!

RE clutch fork: to do it you really need to remove the pin between the arm and shaft, its dead easy then.

I would suggest you have some copper grease around and put a dab on the end of the threads of each bolt, makes life a lot easier down the line. Also as said, take your time.

Dont forget thos 11mm bolts holding the offside shaft bearing in too!

(Give that bearing a good clean too so in future you dont end up smashing the shaft out!)