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+--- Thread: Rear Pad Change Haaalp (/showthread.php?tid=13973)
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Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 19-05-2013
Okay, so I removed the calipers, cleaned everything up, painted them, changed the discs...but now can't get the new pads in? I just don't see how the outers are meant to fit between the caliper and the disc?
Anything obvious I'm missing?
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Niall - 19-05-2013
Need to wind the piston back in. Its on a thread. I used a bit of metal in the cut outs in the piston to wind it back in but you could also tap it round with a screw driver. Wind it back in and your pads should fit.
Oh and once you wind it right back in, you might find that the first time you press the pedal, it may go lower than normal (start the car and just pump it a few times before driving it) and you may also get a little weep of fluid from around the piston after winding in.
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 19-05-2013
Nope, it's the outer not the inner that wont go, I've wound the pistons in anyway...any other ideas?
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Niall - 19-05-2013
Are you sure its sitting in the carrier properly? Been a while since ive done pads on a 306 but doesnt 1 have some tabs on the back and the other doesn't? Get them round the wrong way and they wont fit properly.
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Connor - 19-05-2013
Yeah there are slots in the piston at 12 3 6 9 'o clock and there is a notch on the back of the pad that slots into it
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 19-05-2013
nope, it's definitely the outer pad, the one with a flat back.
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Connor - 19-05-2013
Make sure the calliper is sliding free...if its stiff the you might wanna think about getting it replaced
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 19-05-2013
what do you mean?
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Toms306 - 19-05-2013
Did you wind the piston all the way back? If not, that'll stop you getting the outer pad back in, I've done that myself before.
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 19-05-2013
yeah, pretty sure, how would it effect the outer pad anyway?
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Niall - 19-05-2013
because the carrier moves when the piston is moved against the disc
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Toms306 - 19-05-2013
Yeah, that.
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 19-05-2013
mmkay, anything I can do if it's seized up :S
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Mattcheese31 - 19-05-2013
(19-05-2013, 06:01 PM)Kezzieboy Wrote: mmkay, anything I can do if it's seized up :S
MTFU? . . . . .
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Connor - 19-05-2013
Sliders will need regreasing if they're seized
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - zx_volcane - 19-05-2013
We had your rears apart
Sliders were free, we cleaned up the surfaces with the spinning wire brush of death etc so old pads slid freely
Should all go back together hunky dory
As said maybe just need to keep winding piston back in to make room for beefier new pads
Re: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - MartinL - 19-05-2013
What do you mean they wont go in? As in tight going onto the caliper. Where the pad sits in the caliper, top and bottom.. file the pad down till you see the metal. Problem with pattern brake pads is they paint them black then the pads are to big
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 19-05-2013
Brute force and ignorance saved the day, levered the carriers out with the arse and of a hammer, and then beat the shit out of the sliders to get them past the pads. It's tighter than a nuns lady garden, but back together. Cheers lads!
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Niall - 19-05-2013
Sounds f*cked to me. awaits thread "why is my wheel brown and ive got through a set of pads in 500 miles"
Re: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - MartinL - 19-05-2013
As niall is suggesting, id take them back out.. file the edges down and chuck a sh*t load of brake grease in there or else the pads wont mive in your calipers and goodbye to new pads, hello a new new set of pads
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 19-05-2013
I'll take it for a spin tomorrow and see what happens, I remember Tom having a bit of a f*ck on getting the old pads in too, but I'll bear the filing trick in mind. I'll soon know if they're not going to move.
Re: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - MartinL - 19-05-2013
Okay
just take care hahaa
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 19-05-2013
Also, they must be boving a bit, at I reversed it off the chocks, and then moved forward and the handbrake held...so they can't be stuck solid???
Re: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - MartinL - 19-05-2013
Yeah they must have some movement then but after a few hundred miles, and the brake dust gathering in the caliper carrier they will start to seize up if they were tight going in :/ just keep an eye on them
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Connor - 20-05-2013
Its not a problem with the pads sliding in the calliper, its a problem with the calliper sliding itself, if you've had to lever it that hard to get it to slide, how do you think the calliper is going to release itself when you left your foot off the brake? It won't and you'll wear the pad out in no time
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Rippthrough - 20-05-2013
Or overheat the first time you go for a run and set the pad on fire.
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 20-05-2013
well it's clearly not seized too tight, as the car rolled forward without the handbrake on? I had to lever it to begin with, but after that it freed up a bit, probably just because it hadn't been that far up it's travel for a fair while (since the pads were last changed a few years ago).
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Rich306 - 20-05-2013
As long as you greased up the sliders when putting then back together it should be fine
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 20-05-2013
Had a check today and got everything sliding free, one of the calipers is still a bit stiff, but after a fairly thorough shakedown it was only a wee bit warm, so I reckon that'll settle down nicely. I'm not quite as mechanically retarded as I used to be, it seems.
RE: Rear Pad Change Haaalp - Kezzieboy - 09-07-2013
To bump this thread, I took the little metal shims off the back of the pads for ease of fitting, and now they have started rattling like a bitch, any tips on what to use to replace them?