MG ZR: Cams & Maps - Printable Version +- 306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum (https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum) +-- Forum: Other Marques (https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=38) +--- Forum: Projects (https://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=39) +--- Thread: MG ZR: Cams & Maps (/showthread.php?tid=14360) |
RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Piggy - 09-10-2014 Hahahahahahaaha RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - procta - 09-10-2014 (09-10-2014, 11:46 AM)lolsteve Wrote: So...ummm.yea. bit embarrassing really. Took it to garage who said its from front wheel not back "oh crap" I thought I ont remember hitting the front that's going to be $$$ happens to us all, my driver side wheel on my 306 came loose. i used a wheel brace to tighten my wheels, this time i will use the breaker bar. RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Eeyore - 09-10-2014 haha great! loose wheel bolts fwend! RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Toms306 - 09-10-2014 (09-10-2014, 01:06 PM)procta Wrote:(09-10-2014, 11:46 AM)lolsteve Wrote: So...ummm.yea. bit embarrassing really. Took it to garage who said its from front wheel not back "oh crap" I thought I ont remember hitting the front that's going to be $$$ Doesn't happen to us all, mine are correctly torqued each time. That said, I did just leave a 'punctured' tyre for repair at the garage, got back and he informed me it was just a loose valve core lol. Oops. RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - THE_Liam - 09-10-2014 I'm sorry mate but that's funny as f*ck. At least it was a cheap fix! RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Poodle - 10-10-2014 As above! Haven't damaged anything, i hope? RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - lolsteve - 10-10-2014 Hope it hasn't car is back to as it was before, creaky and annoying Also reporting a loss in coolant, about 200ml since....I can't remember when. wondering if these cold short distance drives to work are putting the hg to risk once again Also the filler around the aeriel base which was to fix the rust patch last year is shrinking/cracking etc so ...hurray more bodywork issues And then wd-40'd the hell out of the front & rear suspension as it's got a nasty rubbery creaking noise first thing on a morning when going over speedbumps or any bump RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - pugmanxud - 10-10-2014 Topmounts creaking? Dry strut thrust bearings? You dont have much luck do ya fella! RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Piggy - 10-10-2014 Sell it and buy a 306 RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Poodle - 11-10-2014 Driving lots of short distances will harm any car mate, mtfu and walk you mincer. :p RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - lolsteve - 20-10-2014 Walking is a pain and so is driving an uncomfortable car so with that I've decided... to buy coilovers Second hand set of gaz for £340, seems expensive against the ta technics but they've apparently been serviced not too long ago as well and have adjustable damping on the rears I'm not going to slam it on the ground, just want the car about the same height but not having suspension that doesn't work right. Once fitted I'll get the tracking sorted once more and see how it goes from there. I've also been working more on the mapping side of things and have found a gentleman online who is working on mapping a 25 gti. Which is basicly the same car but with the 143 engine rather than a 160 like mine So far I think I've found the fuel table by comparing with his maps and trying to locate the ignition table. RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Piggy - 20-10-2014 Weird that they only adjust on the rears?! Good call though I have found my decent setup of coilies to ride better than B4 Bilsteins!! RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - procta - 21-10-2014 getting there! just need to put some decent rubber and brakes on. RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Eeyore - 21-10-2014 Hope these work out for you mate! RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - lolsteve - 24-10-2014 (20-10-2014, 08:58 PM)Piggy Wrote: Weird that they only adjust on the rears?! Not just me who thought it was weird. Apparently the later/newest ones are adjustable on front/back but it was expensive enough getting these let alone a new set. (21-10-2014, 02:18 PM)procta Wrote: getting there! just need to put some decent rubber and brakes on.Still a few things to go, the pads could do with replacing although might just put my mintex pads back on as these greenstuffs seem to take some warming up before they do much Rubber is next on the list of majors purchases though, although trying to be careful and spending money on modifications I can make money back through as in the coilovers are desirable so will sell on for about the same again provided theyre not fked (21-10-2014, 02:57 PM)SRowell Wrote: Hope these work out for you mate!Me too, if this helps sort out the ride issues I can fall in love again. Although the shell is in pretty poor condition now Tempted to do an engine swap into a newer shell that's cheap from HGF or something...but not right now In regards to mapping I've got some example maps I'm working from and comparing values to see what I can learn. Think I've found the rev limiter now so will be able to get just a little more out of it RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Midnightclub - 24-10-2014 No point increasing the limiter if it isn't making power up there though.. RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Eeyore - 24-10-2014 That was my thoughts. my limiter is set at 7k but it starts dropping off at 6.5k. RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Seb_Ryan - 24-10-2014 Typical rover driver, driving to the limiter haha RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - lolsteve - 24-10-2014 (24-10-2014, 08:55 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: No point increasing the limiter if it isn't making power up there though..Normally yes, but VVC gradually kicked in yo! (24-10-2014, 09:02 AM)SRowell Wrote: That was my thoughts. my limiter is set at 7k but it starts dropping off at 6.5k.HP drops off at about 7k http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/images/160ps_powercurve.jpg (24-10-2014, 10:13 AM)Seb_Ryan Wrote: Typical rover driver, driving to the limiter hahaIf they engine is good for it I have no problem, few times I've gone over the limiter ~8k which is wasn't overly happy with but no problems came from it Also COILOVERSSSS! RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Eeyore - 24-10-2014 I cant wait for you to put them on and challenge me on track again... RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Grant - 24-10-2014 All very well and good but; uprated your brakes yet? RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Eeyore - 24-10-2014 (24-10-2014, 02:37 PM)Grant Wrote: All very well and good but; uprated your brakes yet? good point... what happened to that Steve? RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - lolsteve - 24-10-2014 The brakes are running ebc greenstuffs and grooved discs. My thoughts are if my suspension is better I won't need to be so hard on the brakes like I was last time. Sam this time I'll have you! Hopefully will be able to carry the speed through the corners better and the map should get me that power needed to pull away RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Eeyore - 24-10-2014 No you won't... Its nothing to do with the cars mate. Its just skill ive got camp quarry and the esses sorted. Need to work on my line on the others. When are you next going on track? next year? Or fancy getting one in before? RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - lolsteve - 24-10-2014 I've got one booked in for 9th November in Wigan. Been meaning to make a thread about it but as it's quite far up north doubt there'd be much interest. Will be a good opertunity to test the coils and hopefully a map I have skills, I just don't want to make you cry when I wipe the floor with you xox RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - procta - 25-10-2014 (24-10-2014, 08:55 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: No point increasing the limiter if it isn't making power up there though.. its too bloody heavy, that's why he has increased the rev limiter. RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Piggy - 25-10-2014 Even if it makes no more power, if an extra few 100 rpm can be had and the power holds, it can be well worth it on track, just to be able to hold a gear for a chicane or corner. Makes a huge difference also for changing gear and keeping right on the power RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - lolsteve - 26-10-2014 ^ My thoughts exactly, staying in second or having to shift into third coming out of corners. Coilovers are 3/4 installed. The hammer had to come out to get the fronts in and I had a bit of a "lost all hope" moment when I couldn't get the shaft in the hole cause it was dark Just need to reattach the drop links on the driver side as undid the screw to get the strut out easily but now can't get the bolt/hole to line back up RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Piggy - 26-10-2014 Get a lever on the ARB to either lift or drop it to get the link bolt in line RE: MG ZR: Time to beat a 1.0 - Niall - 26-10-2014 (26-10-2014, 09:34 PM)Piggy Wrote: Get a lever on the ARB to either lift or drop it to get the link bolt in line That if you're doing it with one side on the ground, it will never line up. In fact, seeing as you are lowering it, chances are they wouldn't line up anyway as you would have to shorten the drop links. |