306oc - Peugeot 306 Owners Club & Forum

Peugeot 306 1.4
ADVISARY PLEASE DO NOT USE BRICKS AS A STAND.(I DID IN THIS INSTANCE AS I HAD NOT STANDS AT THE TIME BUT FULLY SUPPORTED ELSE WERE)PLEASE USE THE CORRECT STANDS FOR THE JOB.

DRIVE SHAFT.REMOVE/REFIT

Hi guys thought id do a little write up on how to change the drive shaft this is virtually the same both sides. I know its like sucking eggs for most of you but might be helpful for some one
Here we go

1) Firstly ensure you are on a level ground and have all your tools ready and you intend to drain the gearbox oil(why put a new shaft in and use old oil). I’m not going to list every tool you need we all know what size sockets are try em until you find the right one.

2) The next thing you want to do is chock your rear wheels. Now if you are doing this on your own I would chock the front wheels also just for now.
3) The best way to undo the retaining nut for the driveshaft on your own is to leave the car on the ground remove centre cap or wheel trim get your (30mm) socket with your breaker bar or your piece of scaffolding and loosen off the retainer nut not all the way but enough to be loose.(if you have a buddy get him to put his foot on the break pedal whilst you slacken off the nut).[/URL]
4) Now that you’ve done that loosen off the wheel nuts and then jack up the car and support it on either jack stands or if you’re a pikey bricks..
5) Next undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel(I put this under the car in case a stand fails or jack breaks) next thing to do is to get the ball joint off the wishbone there are three nuts behind the disk. They have a star key on the top and a (15mm)bolt underneath .undo the nuts and leave the bolts in.
6) Now we need to move under the car to the mounting bracket o/s (drivers side)(open the bonnet for more light) looking at the bracket you will see two nuts on the left side these are the retaining clips for the middle section of the shaft. these need to be undone practically to the end (try and keep the bolt on there). Now if you move your head to the right side you will or might be able to see the retaining clips theses need to be turned about a 180 degrease.
7)now popping back to the side of the car (make sure you have a pan to catch the remaining oil in gearbox YOU SHOULD DRAIN IT FIRST REALLY)Time to take off the retaining nut. remove ball joint bolts(these can be a bit tricky you may have to turn the steering to remove)once they are out place your hand on the bottom of the break disk and give the driveshaft a hit with a rubber hammer this will free the ball joint from the wishbone and the shaft from its housing.[URL=http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/jonnotheone/media/SAM_1133_zpsdf6eb66c.jpg.html]
8)going back under the car grasp the driveshaft near the gearbox and give it a tug it will come free. now it is free from the gear box you can come round the side of the car and slide it out the rest of the way. And there you go driveshaft is out.
To refit just work backwards from 8 to 1 cant go wrong.
If your doing n/s (passenger side)skip most of step 8.
)ADVISARY PLEASE NOTE IT IS NOT RCOMENDED TO USE BRICKS TO PROP UP YOUR CAR BUT IN THIS INSTANCE I DID I STACKED THEM 3 ACROSS BY 3 ACROSS CRISS CROSS FORMATION PLEASE USE EVERY CAUTION WHEN WORKING UNDER THE CAR)

Mate I appreciate you writing a guide for us but there's some serious pikeyness going on there.

The big issue I have is supporting your car on a pile of bricks especially stacked like that is asking for trouble. IMO anyone stupid enough to get under a badly supported car is asking for serious injury. Even a pair of £10 folding stands would be much more secure although £20 ish for a pair of 2 tonne non folding ones would be the best. IMO £20 is the cost of a new brake disc if the car falls (best case scenario) so consider it insurance.

The other issue is jacking under the tie down straps is a bad idea, it doesn't take alot of force to bend them sideways as they weren't designed to take force in that direction. The sub frame or sill jacking points are the best ideas but even the chassis box section is a better idea.



People might find it easier to drain the gearbox before taking the shafts out using the 21mm drain plug on the bottom and also its easier to unbolt the ball joint pinch bolt (16mm nut and 17mm bolt) to drop the wishbone and remove the shaft than remove the 3 ball joint nuts that will probably be rivets on alot of peoples cars.

Nice write up with useful pics though mate

(24-06-2013, 07:08 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: [ -> ]Mate I appreciate you writing a guide for us but there's some serious pikeyness going on there.

This is grand coming from the King himself...

(24-06-2013, 07:10 PM)vlj Wrote: [ -> ]

(24-06-2013, 07:08 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: [ -> ]Mate I appreciate you writing a guide for us but there's some serious pikeyness going on there.

This is grand coming from the King himself...

This is my point, I'm all for short cuts and a good bit of back street mechanics but thats seriously dangerous.

I don't even like using folding stands (ive got a very bent pair in the workshop from pushing a shell off them)

(24-06-2013, 07:08 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: [ -> ]Mate I appreciate you writing a guide for us but there's some serious pikeyness going on there.

The big issue I have is supporting your car on a pile of bricks especially stacked like that is asking for trouble. IMO anyone stupid enough to get under a badly supported car is asking for serious injury. Even a pair of £10 folding stands would be much more secure although £20 ish for a pair of 2 tonne non folding ones would be the best. IMO £20 is the cost of a new brake disc if the car falls (best case scenario) so consider it insurance.

The other issue is jacking under the tie down straps is a bad idea, it doesn't take alot of force to bend them sideways as they weren't designed to take force in that direction. The sub frame or sill jacking points are the best ideas but even the chassis box section is a better idea.



People might find it easier to drain the gearbox before taking the shafts out using the 21mm drain plug on the bottom and also its easier to unbolt the ball joint pinch bolt (16mm nut and 17mm bolt) to drop the wishbone and remove the shaft than remove the 3 ball joint nuts that will probably be rivets on alot of peoples cars.

Nice write up with useful pics though mate

Mate i wouldnt get under the car with ghe way you think iv stacked bricks there 3 by 3 .i bet you thought id singlely stacked em lol ohh and a thick peice of wood on top...but thanks for your consern the jack wasnt on the tie end for long there strong enuff for 5 minz...and it does state at the start drain gearbox oil..lol

seriously though, the 306 hardly rusts...the ones that do rust on the front floor pan are from muppets jacking them up on the loops.

And bricks are serious no no.

I second the lower ball joint too...not many are bolted and the pinch bolt is simpler method.

(03-07-2013, 05:34 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]seriously though, the 306 hardly rusts...the ones that do rust on the front floor pan are from muppets jacking them up on the loops.

And bricks are serious no no.

I second the lower ball joint too...not many are bolted and the pinch bolt is simpler method.

What your saying i allready know it wasnt jacked up on the loop the jack was raised to it as getting under the car with just bricks holding it up i wouldnt lol there was about 30 bricks the jack and the wheel under the sill so if one goes i had pleanty of time to evacuate under...as for undoing the pinch bolt on the ball joint i have to disagree with that as you could possibly dammage the rubber surrounding it with possibly slipping with what ever your prying it off with the three bolts is a much safer and easyer way to go....

(04-07-2013, 01:39 PM)pugjohn306 Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-07-2013, 05:34 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]seriously though, the 306 hardly rusts...the ones that do rust on the front floor pan are from muppets jacking them up on the loops.

And bricks are serious no no.

I second the lower ball joint too...not many are bolted and the pinch bolt is simpler method.

What your saying i allready know it wasnt jacked up on the loop the jack was raised to it as getting under the car with just bricks holding it up i wouldnt lol there was about 30 bricks the jack and the wheel under the sill so if one goes i had pleanty of time to evacuate under...as for undoing the pinch bolt on the ball joint i have to disagree with that as you could possibly dammage the rubber surrounding it with possibly slipping with what ever your prying it off with the three bolts is a much safer and easyer way to go....

I still wouldn't have gone under, if the loop had gave way, the car may have smashed the bricks as it comes down with force. better off driving the car up set of ramps, slacking off what you needed to do, then drop the car off the ramps, then jack it and use an axle stand. i let the car down onto the axle stand and re jack the car up, so the jack is sharing the weight with the axle stand. so if either gives out, your safe.

(04-07-2013, 03:21 PM)procta Wrote: [ -> ]

(04-07-2013, 01:39 PM)pugjohn306 Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-07-2013, 05:34 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]seriously though, the 306 hardly rusts...the ones that do rust on the front floor pan are from muppets jacking them up on the loops.

And bricks are serious no no.

I second the lower ball joint too...not many are bolted and the pinch bolt is simpler method.

What your saying i allready know it wasnt jacked up on the loop the jack was raised to it as getting under the car with just bricks holding it up i wouldnt lol there was about 30 bricks the jack and the wheel under the sill so if one goes i had pleanty of time to evacuate under...as for undoing the pinch bolt on the ball joint i have to disagree with that as you could possibly dammage the rubber surrounding it with possibly slipping with what ever your prying it off with the three bolts is a much safer and easyer way to go....

I still wouldn't have gone under, if the loop had gave way, the car may have smashed the bricks as it comes down with force. better off driving the car up set of ramps, slacking off what you needed to do, then drop the car off the ramps, then jack it and use an axle stand. i let the car down onto the axle stand and re jack the car up, so the jack is sharing the weight with the axle stand. so if either gives out, your safe.

The loop.couldnt give way as i have stated above the jack was jacked up to the loop but no pressure was even on the loop there was 3 points of contact at all times

I don't get the outrage over this, I think it is a nice little guide. I remember back on .net GTIKYLE showing a picture of his car supported very precariously by bricks and no one said anything. In this thread the OP has clearly stated NOT to use bricks.

(04-07-2013, 03:21 PM)procta Wrote: [ -> ]

(04-07-2013, 01:39 PM)pugjohn306 Wrote: [ -> ]

(03-07-2013, 05:34 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]seriously though, the 306 hardly rusts...the ones that do rust on the front floor pan are from muppets jacking them up on the loops.

And bricks are serious no no.

I second the lower ball joint too...not many are bolted and the pinch bolt is simpler method.

What your saying i allready know it wasnt jacked up on the loop the jack was raised to it as getting under the car with just bricks holding it up i wouldnt lol there was about 30 bricks the jack and the wheel under the sill so if one goes i had pleanty of time to evacuate under...as for undoing the pinch bolt on the ball joint i have to disagree with that as you could possibly dammage the rubber surrounding it with possibly slipping with what ever your prying it off with the three bolts is a much safer and easyer way to go....

I still wouldn't have gone under, if the loop had gave way, the car may have smashed the bricks as it comes down with force. better off driving the car up set of ramps, slacking off what you needed to do, then drop the car off the ramps, then jack it and use an axle stand. i let the car down onto the axle stand and re jack the car up, so the jack is sharing the weight with the axle stand. so if either gives out, your safe.

Good idea and i do the same. You can never have too much safety but dont actually put any pressure on the car with the jack. Jack it up so its literally just touching the jacking point. Its much more likely that the jack will fail than the stand (and most jacks any of us can afford will creep over time) and if it did, the car may move when the jack gives way. Again chances of it falling off the stand providing you have decent stands is slim but still, not ideal! Ive had a car slip off a stand before (thankfully i wasnt under it) And that scared me enough to be over cautious!

(04-07-2013, 04:08 PM)306Puggy Wrote: [ -> ]I don't get the outrage over this, I think it is a nice little guide. I remember back on .net GTIKYLE showing a picture of his car supported very precariously by bricks and no one said anything. In this thread the OP has clearly stated NOT to use bricks.

Nice one......cheers.....

not sure what you mean by the rubber being damaged when you remove the pinch bolt?!

Worth noting that if you remove the ball joint with the three bolts, you may find you have adjusted the toe in/out and need to track it up.

pinch bolt is best way in my trained/experienced opinion

(04-07-2013, 05:13 PM)Piggy Wrote: [ -> ]not sure what you mean by the rubber being damaged when you remove the pinch bolt?!

Worth noting that if you remove the ball joint with the three bolts, you may find you have adjusted the toe in/out and need to track it up.

pinch bolt is best way in my trained/experienced opinion

Depending how heavy handed you are, you could damage the dust boot but it obvious its there. If you have a proper ball joint splitter, it wont damage it!

I always find it a pita trying to get the hub off the bottom ball joint, I'm not strong enough and just end up with aching arms lol. Removing the whole balljoints on these is also a pita cos of the rusty torx bolts. So last few times I've done a shaft, I've taken out the back pinch bolt and taken the hub off the shock first. Seems like more effort but saves time in the long run and no chance of moving the tracking either.

its not so much about effort, Im a weedy guy, its technique.

once you got it down to a fine art, you can pop a ball joint real quick

I dunno, I'm sure there is a knack to it (which I haven't acquired yet) but also with the wishbone pushing up and the spring pushing down, you're working against two forces which is gonna take some effort to break apart.

Plus I'm a pussy and get scared pushing the crowbar down too hard in case I slip and smash my hand on the floor lol.

few things I would say help:

soak it in wd40 or similar once pinch bolt is out
open the jaws of the hub a little
leverage....crowbar is way too short...something longer and get the end under the subframe.
then push the hub IN whilst levering down. a friend can come in handy here.
and consider one big torquey push/jerk rather than pushing down smoothly

Well boys and girls we all have our own way of doing things i only wrote this as a rough guide for people who want to do there ds so lets all leave it at that..we all find easyer and faster ways to do things with trial end error....

(05-07-2013, 11:29 PM)pugjohn306 Wrote: [ -> ]Well boys and girls we all have our own way of doing things i only wrote this as a rough guide for people who want to do there ds so lets all leave it at that..we all find easyer and faster ways to do things with trial end error....

Fair play. We all have our own methods of doing jobs but when it comes to basic safety, there is only one way to do it. The proper way. Dunno why but something just scares me about having over a tonne of car above me on badly placed stands!